Skip to main content

Travel Writer Describes the Isle in 1960

The book "Yank in Yucatan" has advice for travelers visiting Isla Mujeres ~fifty years ago. It says...
"Isla Mujeres is a Hollywood producer's dream of the typical tropical island"~Rolfe F. Schell
       "Until March of 1959, Isla Mujeres was completely cut off from the rest of the world, with the exception of a narrow dirt jungle road, and a connecting ferry. In March, Jesus Lima, owner of the Zacil Ha, one of the two hotels on the island, inaugurated the first scheduled air flights from Merida. The little single-engined monoplane now skims swiftly over the lush jungle and dusty road, arriving at Isla Mujeres about two hours after takeoff . In the many trips I have made to Mujeres, I have never really looked forward to the two hundred miles of hot road travel (from Merida to Puerto Juarez, via Valladolid), but I have never regretted the ride either. Actually, the bus is about as comfortable as the automobile ride, ... the $1.60 fare is contrasted blatantly against the $15 to $30 charged for a car and chauffeur. "
Late to mid 60's Hotel Zazil Ha.
       "Puerto Juarez is not really a port in the true sense of the word, but rather a minute fishing village of a dozen huts. There are two 'stores' where a limited selection of canned goods is available plus prepared food of a dubious nature." He says the bus arrived from Valladolid with a dead deer tied to the roof, and a cargo of contentious chickens, in addition to its passengers. He describes the white huipiles of the local women, noting that it was common for natives to take as many as five baths daily, in cold water.
     The passengers rode in a launch to the Carmita, which was anchored ~200 yards offshore. A bull was taken along, which did not go easily, nearly capsizing the launch.
     They arrived 45 minutes later at the concrete Naval pier, and he stayed at the recently opened Posada del Mar, which he described as four rooms stacked in two stories, overlooking the bay. He said all the streets were of sand and he didn't see any vehicles. To the north of town was a large coconut grove covering many acres, which was kept free of other vegetation. He describes the airport south of town:
     "A tiny strip of green turf bounded on the east by a nasty little hill and on the west by the water of the bay. Only single engine planes could come in here safely and due to the prevailing trade winds, nearly always from the north, sweeping low over the village before landing."
      He described two stores, stocked with staples and dry goods, and learned there were several more within private homes. Since there was little or no tourist trade, souvenirs were not sold. Australian pines shaded the town square, where the Church was located, and nearby was a dance hall - ice cream parlor combination. A new kindergarten overlooked the Caribbean, and to its north was a primary school, and then the ten bed hospital. Further along the Caribbean coast were a few private homes, and he walked to the northern point of the isle, "Where Zacil Ha lies". He claims this building was once called Casa de la Punta (House at the Point), until an American tourist kept referring to it as "Casa de la Puta" or whore house.
    From "A Yank in Yucatan  Adventures and guide through Eastern Mexico" by Rolfe F Schell, Island Press, Ft. Meyers Beach Florida, 1963. Photographs by Author

Casa de las Piedras ("the Lima House") by Bruce Roberts
Another view of the Casa de las Piedras  by Bruce Roberts
      The hotel "Zazil Ha", now the "Mia", was inaugurated on May 18, 1964 with 32 rooms. Despite creating his own airline and tourism agency, Sr. Lima was never able to break even, because there was not enough tourism.. After nine years of intense effort, the family was unable to meet the loan payments. In 1973 they give up the hotel to the National Financiera, forfeiting other island properties he'd put up as collateral. Don Jose Lima Gutierrez retained his home, Casa de las Piedras, and continued to live in Isla Mujeres until he passed away in 2009, at age 97. His family still lives on the isle & owns businesses and properties. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  This blog is brought to you by....
View from the rooms.

MaraVilla Caribe   Bed & Beach    Three rentals with large glass doors overlooking our white sand beach and the beautiful Caribbean sea, with  kitchenettes & free WIFI. In the coastal neighborhood of  Bachilleres, among upscale villas & boutique hotelitos, convenient to downtown or the colonias, yet separate.  Quiet & Private.   
 Kitchen in a large studio. (Sur & Norte are identical)
Kitchenette in small room, Medio. There's a table & chairs across from it & a double bed.
A large slider opens from each of the 3 rooms onto the patio where each has a table & chairs, hammock & clotheslines. The BBQ is behind the pole, and the outdoor shower is outa the pic at left.
Large studio (Norte), I'm standing in the kitchen. A queen & single bed.

Free amenities such as hammocks, bikes, outdoor shower, portable beach chairs & beach towels, washer, loungers. Breathtaking panoramic views from the rooftop terrace. Upstairs room also available.   Downtown is  ~ a mile away; if you don't feel like walking or biking, flag a $2 taxi. Parking. You can enjoy the music & crowds downtown, then come home our quiet neighborhood of Bachilleres where you'll  sleep to the sounds of the sea.$275/$325/$425 wk   $40/50/$65nt  Monthly Discounts

Large studio (Sur) with Queen & Single bed. Slider door & view are behind me.

Fine dining a few steps away at Da Luisa or try the traditional neighborhood eateries a couple blocks farther. Within ten minutes walk are the restaurants Mango Cafe, Brisas, Manolitos,  Green Verde, Kash Kechen Chuc, and the large department store-grocery Chedraui. Visit marinas, bars, & beach clubs that are minutes away by bike or on foot. Attend Yoga classes a couple villas away at hotelito Casa Ixchel. Fresh juice, produce & tortillas a few blocks away in the village, as well as a variety of other stores and small local restaurants. It takes 20-30  minutes to walk downtown.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Chronological Table of Contents (Click on "Read More" to open the Chronological Table of Contents)

Chronologically: From Mayas to Tourism PRECOLONIAL     Ruins of a second temple to Ixchel were found on the Mundaca Hacienda a few years ago EARLY CONTACT Mayan Merchant-Sailors Traded Salt & Stingray Spines and Met Columbus PIRATES Hard times in the 1500's: Attacks by Conquistadors, Corsairs & Pirates Do you think of Isla Mujeres pirates when you hear the song "La Bamba"? SETTLED IN 1850 From Pirate Refuge to Established Settlement   From Five Fishermen to 1500 Refugees: Isla Mujeres in the 1840's Sending Slaves to Cuba, Conspiring With Rebels & Liberating Sailors from Cozumel: The Caste War The Census of 1866 (16 years after the town was founded) Mundaca & La Trigueña   Isla Mujeres in 1876 1876: The Fishermen & the Bay by Alice Le Plongeon AMONG THE TURTLE CATCHERS by Alice le Plongeon in 1876 This Town was Built by Farmers Who Learned to Fish and Survive Disasters & Disease 1900's The Hu...

Mayan Merchant-Sailors Traded Salt & Stingray Spines and Met Columbus

     On his last voyage in 1502, Christopher Columbus encountered a large canoe in the Bay Islands of the Gulf of Honduras which was full of Mayan trade goods, and presumably from the Yucatan. Its ~40 passengers included well dressed merchants, their families, and about 25 oarsmen. It was eight feet wide, 'as long as a galley' (~50ft), with a cabin in the middle. He compared it a Venetian gondola and was impressed with their seamanship. Mayan murals display boats with raised, curved bows and sterns.      He described their fine textiles, weapons made of flint (probably actually obsidian), and copper goods including cups, bells and hatchets. The Mayan merchants carried a type of beer made from fermented corn, now called "Cheba", which young Fernando Columbus enjoyed. The Europeans also had their first exposure to chocolate.   Maya trade routes on land & sea The blue lines are commercial sea routes, red are comm...

Mundaca & La Trigueña

Top  photo is  part of the gardens and bottom photo is his empty grave & tombstone in the downtown Isla Mujeres cemetery From Yank in Yucatan by Rolfe F Schell, 1963           After the British Navy stepped up enforcement against piracy, in 1858, pirate Fermin Mundaca, 33, came to Isla Mujeres. He purchased 40% of the island, having acquired his fortune through the trafficking of slaves from Africa to Cuba. There are indications that Mundaca was also involved with transporting Mayans to work as slaves in Cuban mines and haciendas, as well as Africans.       He was the first to construct solid buildings on the isle, except for the old Mayan temples, whos e stones he presumably used. The foundation of a temple to Ixchel has been found on his Hacienda, which he named "Vista Alegre".        He was in his 50's when he became infatuated with a beautiful teenager known as "La Tri...