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Do you think of Isla Mujeres pirates when you hear the song "La Bamba"?


"La Bamba" is about fleet of ~1200 pirates seizing Veracruz & escaping to Isla Mujeres, laden with treasure.



       The leader of the attack, Lorencillo, was a more successful pirate than Blackbeard or Captain Kidd.  He was said to be a handsome, cultured man who carried a violin and trumpet, which he played to entertain his crew. He was well read and knew large sections of Shakespeare by heart, which he would recite in Dutch and Spanish, particularly his favorite, "King Lear".
     The siege happened on May 18, 1683, during the "golden age of piracy". The Dutch pirate Nicolas van Hoorn was supposedly buried on or near Isla Mujeres when he died the following month from an infected wound. He'd received a slash on the wrist while dueling with Lorencillo, who'd stopped him from beheading more townspeople.     As the Spanish Armada was arriving in Veracruz, the pirates escaped to Isla Mujeres with spoils whose value is estimated at between 4 and 7 million pesos. They took 1500 slaves and lost 35 men. It is said each man got 800 pieces of eight.
      Regarding the song, when the pirates were arriving to attack Veracruz, the news spread across the countryside and the tolling of the chapel bell at the nearby Hacienda Malibrán summoned workers and their families. They feared becoming victims of robbery, rape and murder, and were deciding whether to fight or flee.
      Hacienda owner Doña Beatríz del Real thought the workers would not be able to fight back, because they were not marineros. (They were civilians, not sailor-soldiers.) Her loyal foreman Malanga replied repeatedly that although they weren't marineros, now they would have to become soldiers to defend themselves. They prepared their defenses, and then learned the pirates had already passed about ten miles to their north, and proceeded to celebrate.
      A visiting musician named "El Guaruso", from nearby Tlalixcoyan wrote "La Bamba" about the brave villagers who were prepared to take a stand, who said "No soy marinero". The phrase "Soy Capitan!" is said to represent their confidence and courage.
       The second verse is about the desperate Veracruzanos climbing up a long ladder, then a short ladder, to leap to their deaths from the bell tower of the Catedral de la Asunción.  The song has many variations and additional verses, and is popular at weddings. Most norteamericanos associate it with a movie about Richie Valens.
      After the successful attack on Veracruz, and escape to Isla Mujeres, in December 1683, Lorencillo captured two large Spanish men-of-war, sending a message to the Governor of Cartagena, thanking him for the Christmas presents & naming one the "Neptune".
       In July, 1685, Lorencillo and his cohorts attacked Campeche with a thousand men and a dozen ships. The Spanish soldiers abandoned the city, leaving the citizens at the mercy of the pirates for the rest of the summer. The pirate troops spread through the countryside looting haciendas and villages, stealing the harvested food, as well as objects of value. This terrible event led to the fortification of Campeche. Once again, Lorencillo angered a fellow captain by objecting to executions of prisoners with unpaid ransoms, and they parted ways.
      Two months later, Lorencillo set sail from Isla Mujeres with his wife, aboard the Neptune laden with treasure,accompanied by another captain, "Bott". The two Dutchmen turned tail when they were spotted by a Spanish squadron. Both jettisoned valuables and guns to lighten their ships. Bott's ship was captured and he was taken prisoner. Lorencillo's "Neptune" took 14 hits broadside, and one of the Spanish ships fired 1600 rounds. He refused to surrender, and escaped with “only a couple of spars shot away, even though he was being attacked from both sides within musket range.” A moderate but steady wind from the southeast was fortuitous and he sailed to Isla de Pinos, south of Cuba, to recuperate.
      Mexican military officer Robles reported seeing Lorencillo in Isla Mujeres between Sat June 8 & Thursday June 13 1686, "que estaba muy malo", (in a bad state), but the pirate survived.
It was said that after his first wife divorced him, Lorencillo proposed to his second wife while she was pointing a gun at him. He'd insulted her, she drew a gun, and he proposed by way of apology. She was also pregnant with his child.
       Other pirates who hung out in Isla Mujeres included Pata de Palo, Diego El Mulato, and Abraham.
      From the late 1600's, the story moves ahead about a century to the end of legal piracy in the Caribbean, under the influence of organized English military fleets.
      In the early 1800's, the Lafitte brothers occupied the isle and some people claim they left descendants behind, but this seems unlikely since there were no settlers on the isle then.
In the early 1840's when the first archeologists visited, the isle was empty except for a couple Cuban fishermen's shacks. The town of Dolores was established in 1850 by a community of less than 50 families, fleeing the Caste War.
      In 1858, records show that the former slave trader & pirate Fermin Mundaca, who was 33 at the time, was on the island. He purchased ~40% of it, and was the first to construct solid buildings, except for the old Mayan temples, whose stones he presumably used. The foundation of a temple to Ixchel has been found on his Hacienda.
      In 1876, when an archeologist-photographer couple visited, the Lafitte brothers' watch towers were still present, and Mundaca was still living on the isle. He was in his 50's and became infatuated with a teenager who was 37 years younger. He built gardens and statuary devoted to her, but she rejected his attentions. He carved himself a tombstone, dated 1877, when she would have been 15 years old, that says, "As I am, you will be". It is believed he went to Merida in ~1880, sick with yellow fever, and died there, but his death certificate or grave haven't been located. His empty grave & tombstone are in the downtown Isla Mujeres cemetery.

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View from the rooms.

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 Kitchen in a large studio. (Sur & Norte are identical)
Kitchenette in small room, Medio. There's a table & chairs across from it & a double bed.
A large slider opens from each of the 3 rooms onto the patio where each has a table & chairs, hammock & clotheslines. The BBQ is behind the pole, and the outdoor shower is outa the pic at left.
Large studio (Norte), I'm standing in the kitchen. A queen & single bed.

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Large studio (Sur) with Queen & Single bed. Slider door & view are behind me.

Fine dining a few steps away at Da Luisa or try the traditional neighborhood eateries a couple blocks farther. Within ten minutes walk are the restaurants Mango Cafe, Brisas, Manolitos,  Green Verde, Kash Kechen Chuc, and the large department store-grocery Chedraui. Visit marinas, bars, & beach clubs that are minutes away by bike or on foot. Attend Yoga classes a couple villas away at hotelito Casa Ixchel. Fresh juice, produce & tortillas a few blocks away in the village, as well as a variety of other stores and small local restaurants. It takes 20-30  minutes to walk downtown.

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